6. Third Peak

This small east-west knife blade just north of Lost Peak is a minor echo of Lost Peak, as Lost Peak is of the Wedge. The approaches to Third Peak are generally so long and arduous that they try the patience of even an "Organ Saint" (by definition a person so enamoured of the harsh beauty of the Organs that, far from minding the length of the approaches and the hostility of the terrain, he actually lies down with the cholla and blesses the rattlesnakes). Hence this little peak is rarely visited.

Principal Routes

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6a. S Face

Class: high 4

4 - 4� hours

First ascent: 31 March 1957; H. Fisherher, K. Harrington.

Take the Wildcat approach route (see Route 8a) but at the top of Wohlt's Welt take either gully and pass through the brushy wilderness on the south side of Dingleberry to the Organ Ridge. Then walk south, to the Third Peak-Lost Peak Saddle. Or, after a climb of Lost Peak's W Ridge (Route 5a) drop down its easy N Side to this Saddle. The climb goes up the S Face of Third Peak in line with the Organ Ridge for one 70 foot pitch to its knifelike summit ridge.

Descend the same way by rappel and return by either approach route.

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6b. N Face

Class: high 4

4 - 4� hours

First ascent: 16 February 1957; D. Schluter, B. Tryon, J.M. Adams.

Approach as in Route 6a. Climb for one 70 foot pitch to the sharp summit ridge.

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6c. E Ridge

Class: low 5

4� - 5 hours

First ascent: 12 September 1957; R. Hahn, C. Clark, H. Davis.

Approach as in Route 6a. Descend onto the East Side., then climb directly up this knife-like little ridge.

This material is from "A Climbing Guide to the Organ Mountains", Copyright by R.L.Ingraham, Privately published, 1960's.