5. Lost Peak

Just north of the Wedge stands its satellite, Lost Peak, a narrow axe blade of a peak running east-west, slightly lower and much less-massive than the Wedge. Its long sharp W Ridge echoes that of the Wedge, but is much more broken up and less inclined. Viewed from the north end of the range this extremely long ridge completely blots out that of the Wedge and is often mistaken for it.

Principal Routes

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5a. W Ridge

Class: medium 4

4� - 5� hours

First Ascent: 31 March 1957;  H. Fischer, D. Schluter, J.M. Adams

Approach as in Route 4b as far as the saddle at the entrance to the gully between Lost Peak and the Wedge. Then strike left through heavy brush to an easy rock gully leading east up onto Lost Peak's W Ridge. There are several interesting 3rd and 4th Class problems in this gully. Attain the Ridge and proceed upward; it soon narrows so much that there is no ambiguity about the route. About halfway up, where the Ridge narrows momentarily to a knife-edge, step out around a block onto good holds on its south side.This route, both for its number of not too difficult problems and its natural beauty, is recommended for intermediate and talented novice climbers.

On the descent, rappel down the S Face to the Lost Peak - Wedge Col, using a low rock bollard near the summit. Return down the gully between Lost Peak and the Wedge until the approach route is joined. One can also climb down the easy N Side from a point near the summit but the return walk, via Wohlt's 's Welt (see Route 8a), is much longer. This descent route furnishes an easy way up from the north.

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5b. S Face

Class: low 5

3� - 4 hours

First ascent: 1958(?); D. Boyer, R. Ingraham

The approach coincides with that of Route 4e. Go up one easy pitch in a gully leading up into the S Face. Then climb a right angle open book by narrow ledges on the right wall until a traverse left to easier rock is possible 20 feet below the summit ridge.

This material is from "A Climbing Guide to the Organ Mountains", Copyright by R.L.Ingraham, Privately published, 1960's.