3. Squaretop
Seen from the west, Squaretop is a prominent square cog on that part of the Organ Ridge which descends northward from Little Squaretop. It is recommended for intermediate and talented novice climbers.
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3a. SE Arete |
Class: high 4 |
3 - 3� hours |
First ascent: 15 July 1956; R. Hahn, B. Martin, T. Idler
|
From the Cuevas pursue the Wedge approach (see Route 4a) as far as a point about 10 minutes past Olhausen's Oasis on the welt leading up to the Big Tooth. Then traverse off it eastward into a large rock bowl, which breaches the rock wall running along the base of the Organs in this region. Climb out of the Bowl either up its left or right sides. Continue up the main gully, bushwhacking and following deer trails where possible. Near the top this gully branches into three narrower gullies. Choose the central one and climb up over 3rd Class rock to the base of Squaretop. Go up a mildly inclined open book to a narrow saddle on the Organ Ridge just southeast of the peak. Traverse right for a few feet under an overhang at the base of the SE Arete, then climb up to a good step just above it. From here continue straight up, following good cracks provided with solid holds, for about 75 feet to the summit.
Descend by rappelling down the ascent route.
Squaretop SE Arete Route
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3b. E Couloir |
Class: medium 4 |
3 - 3� hours |
| First ascent: 6 March 1955; W. LaFleur, H. Davis |
This was the first ascent route of the peak. Approach and surmount the step at the base of the SE Arete as in Route 3a. But then traverse right into the rock couloir running up the E Side, and climb over easy rock to the summit.
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3c. S-1 (spur on Squaretop) |
Class: medium 4 |
3 - 3� hours |
First ascent: 25 September 1955; H. Davis, H. White, B. Ficklin |
This sharp little spur stands just under the overhanging NW Side of Squaretop. Approach as in Route 3a. Climb up the NW "ridge" of the Spur for one short pitch to its top. Or climb the more difficult SW Side. Descend by rappel.
This material is from "A Climbing Guide to the Organ Mountains", Copyright by R.L.Ingraham, Privately published, 1960's.