This broad peak, forested with large pines, sits southwest of the Rabbit Ears. Although it has an unprominent summit, its broad summit area more resembles a plateau. It can be ascended by a walking route up Rabbit Ears Canyon and was climbed in "ancient times", as fragments of old records show. The Massif is bounded on the south by a great vertical wall, facing on Big Windy Canyon, across which runs a curious series of parallel narrow ledges like tiers. On the southwest side lie the long spectacularly sharp Ribs, making up the Rib Cage. On the west side the Ribs smooth out to a wall, bulging and smooth at the bottom (the Bastion) and broken into a confused array of pinnacles and gullies above. Rounding the corner to the north side the impregnable grey fortress of Orp's N Face first presents itself. This eases off into a series of lesser faces, ribs, and gullies as you go eastward until it finally relaxes into the gentle walking slope of the Massif's northeast end.
| Principal Routes |
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15a. S Wall Traverse |
|
Class: high 4 |
4 - 4 1/2 hours |
First ascent: 1961 (?); R. Ingraham, P. Wohlt. | |
From Topp Hut or the Mine above it head for Big Windy Canyon, staying high on its north side. Round the base of the southernmost rib (the Knife Rib, see Route 15b) and head for the large concavity in the west end of the S Wall. Some brushy 3rd Class climbing brings you to the top of a low shoulder. This low shoulder gives access at its east end to the middle ledge crossing the Face, a remarkably easy thoroughfare considering that it looks like a mere streak of green from a distance. Walk about two-thirds of the way across the Face on this ledge to where it intersects a prominent gully leading directly up. Climb up the gully to a low wall, then traverse right about 50 feet, climb about 12 feet of wall, then head back on a brushy ledge to the main axis of the gully. Above this climb the rest of the way to the Plateau over a series of easy friction slabs. As a variation, the middle ledge can be taken at the east end of the Wall and the traverse to the "prominent gully" made from there.
The shortest descent from the Plateau is via the gully between the Knife and the Long Ribs. Descend to the upper end of the Long Rib (see Route 15c ), then cross southward into this gully. Continue down over easy terrain to the base of the Rib Cage, then head either for the Mine or Topp Hut. A longer but gentler descent goes via the steep brushy gully descending eastward from the narrow saddle between Orp and the Rabbit Ears Massif ("Orp's Gully") into the upper Rabbit Ears Canyon, then down the Canyon to the Mine.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15b. The Knife Rib |
|
Class: high 5 |
? hours |
First ascent: 1961 (?); P. Wohlt, R. Ingraham. | |
Although this route has never been properly finished, it is included here because it offers some of the most difficult friction climbing combined with considerable exposure to be found in the Organs.
Approach as in Route 15a, but turn off at the base of this southernmost Rib, whose knifelike crest forms the top of the S. Wall. There are three prominent towers (the Knuckles) at the base of the Knife Rib. Start at the bottom of the lowest Knuckle and climb directly up the spine of the Rib. The last Knuckle may be turned high on the right. This places you at a small notch from which rises the blade of the upper Knife Rib. The beginning of the next pitch is the last word in friction climbing coupled with "exhilarating" exposure. Continue up the Rib for two pitches to a deep cut in the Rib which allows an exit on the left side into the canonical descent gully. About 100 feet of difficult exposed friction climbing separate this point from the easier terminal rock of the Rib. The ultimate route may go either directly up its spine (high angle friction and small holds climbing) or detour onto the S Wall along an enticing ledge which, however, soon turns into a smooth vertical chute without holds.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15c. Long Rib |
|
Class: high 4 |
5 - 5� hours |
First ascent: 1958 (?); R. Ingraham, D. Boyer. | |
One of the finest intermediate climbs in the Organs. This Rib is the next one north of the Knife Rib. From its base to its end, about 150 feet below the Rabbit Ears Plateau, it offers a succession of some 12 to 15 3rd and 4th Class pitches.
From Topp Hut, or the Mine, strike up toward its base, choosing a route which minimizes the loss of altitude incurred in crossing arroyos. Climb directly up the spine of the Rib. A 100 foot vertical step in the lower half should be turned on the left. (A 5th Class variation turns it on the right.) At the upper end the Rib turns into an exceedingly narrow blade, which is gained by a diverting small holds climb up its lower end. Walk off the end and 150 feet up a gully to the Rabbit Ears Plateau.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15d. The Broken Rib |
|
Class: medium 5 |
? hours |
(Partial) First ascent: 1964 (?); R. Ingraham, G. Goedecke. | |
The next Rib north of the Long Rib is the Broken Rib, a discontinuous rib consisting of three fragments, of which the middle third is the sharpest blade of rock in the Rib Cage. This middle third, like the upper end of the Knife Rib, has never been traversed.
Approach to its base from the Mine above Topp Hut, staying high and avoiding arroyos which are deep lower down. The first third is straightforward low 4th Class climbing on friction and small holds at an easy angle. Continue up the Rib to the tower marking the lower end of the sharp blade of the middle third, (The correct route from here would continue up the spine of the Rib.) Traverse off into the very narrow gully running up on its left. There are two chimneys to surmount, the upper one more delicate, involving a wide split and, subsequent taking to the right wall. A few feet beyond this upper chimney a small saddle is attained, from which one can climb to the sharp summit pinnacle of the razor-like portion of the Broken Rib. (From here admire its 300 foot slightly overhanging south wall.) From the saddle mount a vertical pitch to a point about half way up the upper third of the Broken Rib, and continue up easy rock to the top.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15e. Rogowski's Rib |
|
Class: high 4 |
4� - 5 hours |
First ascent: 1962(?) P.Rogowski, P. Wohlt, F. Evans. | |
This much more massive Rib lies north of and considerably higher than the Broken Rib. Its long continuous sweep finally ends where it runs into the summit block of the Rabbit Ears Massif; the terminal passage to the summit, up a slightly overhanging chimney full of loose rock, has not proved passable up to now.
From the Mine mount the slope above to the "Razor Blades", then contour right into a gully full of large water-smoothed boulders and mount this to the base of the Bastion wall. Walk right to the point where this wall presents the least angle. From this jumping off place head up and to the right into a large, wide open book. Above this the route debouches into a levelish area full of brush. Bear right, bounded always by the considerable drop of the Rib's south wall on your right, and get onto the upper half of the Rib via an easy ramp on its lower left side. Continue up for several pitches until the small sharp notch where the Rib runs into the main bulk of the Massif is reached. Descend into the gully on the left and, after descending a few hundred feet, take any of a number of brushy gullies which lead up to a point northwest of the summit in the neighborhood of Orp.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15f. The Bastion, High Traverse to Orp's Garden |
|
Class: easy 5 |
5 - 5� hours |
First ascent: 1962 (?); R. Ingraham, P. Wohlt. | |
The approach is the same as for Route 15e. Then go directly up 3rd Class rock for 150 feet or so until steep friction slabs are encountered. Climb a short but very smooth friction slab, continue straight up, then bear slightly to the right up a short steep wall with good but small holds to the base of a prominent vertical open book about 15 feet high. Climb this most elegantly by employing small footholds on the left wall. Above this 100 vertical feet of easy climbing brings you to a brushy level place. From here traverse left and slightly upward along a prominent, easy, brush-overgrown ledge, clearly visible from Topp Hut, for several hundred feet. An intervening buttress is turned on the left rather than going straight up the crack dividing it from the main massif, which is problematical at the top. From the top of the buttress drop by a walking route into Orp's Garden, a hanging garden of dense brush between the prominent tower of Orp and the Rabbit Ears Massif. At the rear of the Garden, climb a small tower (overtopping Orp by 100 feet) by its NW Ridge.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15g. The Bastion, Direct |
|
Class: medium 5 |
5� - 6 hours |
First ascent: 1962 (?); P. Wohlt,R. Ingraham. | |
This route coincides with Route 15f as far as the "brushy level place" just above the open book. From here continue straight up into a sort of bowl, from which you exit by a route which diagonals up left from its rear. Above this the "identity" of the route becomes somewhat ambiguous in a stretch of bushy terrain. Continue straight up and get onto a rib-like gendarme. Climb up its NW Ridge, turn the first pinnacle on the left, and emerge above this onto a spacious sloping ledge on its SW Side. At the very upper end of this ledge step around an exposed corner, traverse 20 feet, and go up a steep slab to easy ground on top of the rib. From here take to the larger rib above and to the right, and continue to the top of the Massif.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15h. Orp, Normal Route |
|
Class: 3 |
3� - 4 hours |
First ascent: (?) | |
Orp is the great tower which bounds the Rabbit Ears Massif on the north. Seen from Topp Hut, two great towers dominate the scene to the northwest: Orp on the right, the Lesser Spire on the left, framing an exceedingly narrow pass. Behind these two, the two major Rabbit Ears protrude only slightly. The origin of the name is lost in antiquity.
From the Hut or the Mine, proceed up the Rabbit Ears Canyon all the way to the Rabbit Ears Col, which lies on the main Organ Ridge between the South Rabbit Ear and the Rabbit Ears Massif (see Route 14c). Walk onto the Plateau, proceed westward, and descend to the saddle between Orp and the Massif via some 3rd Class climbing. Then climb directly up the easy slabs of Orp's NE Side to the summit.
Descend by retracing the approach, or more quickly, by dropping down Orp's Gully (see Route 15a).
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15i. Orp, N Face Compromise |
|
Class: medium 5 |
4� - 5 hours |
First ascent: 1964 (?); F. deSaussure, R. Ingraham, D. Bailey. | |
Take the approach for Route 12a, but at the precise point where that approach branches left into the prominent gully descending from the North Rabbit Ear - Middle Rabbit Ear Col, turn right out of the floor of the Rabbit Ears Canyon and bushwhack and then climb over slabby, moss-encrusted rocks to a small level area under the left half of Orp's N Face. Climb the prominent crack at the extreme left of the Face where it runs into the NE Rib in a right angle open book (beware of loose rock!). After about 130 feet a small belay spot is a reached, from which one gets onto the NE Rib via a sloping ledge. Proceed up this Rib for some 100 feet, then traverse around onto the upper part of the N Face to a spacious ledge beyond and above which the difficulty suddenly increases. From here there are two sporting routes. One way is to go directly up for one pitch, involving delicate balance and then small holds, to the summit. Another way is to rappel down to the narrow but prominent ledge arching across the top of the N Face, which is visible from afar. Walk all the way across the Face on this ledge, then go up an easy but exposed pitch and around the corner to a comfortable ledge on the W Side. From here one easy pitch up excellent rock places you on the summit.
Return to the Top of The Rabbit Ear Massif Route Descriptions
15j. Orp, NE Gully |
|
Class: medium 5 |
3� - 4 hours |
First ascent: 1964 (?); R. Ingraham, F. deSaussure . | |
The approach coincides with that of Route 15i. From the level place under the extreme left part of the N Face traverse a few feet east on a broad platform, then climb over the NE Rib into the gully behind it. Two pitches up this gully place you high on the NE Rib. Up to here the difficulty has been high 4th Class at most. Finish the climb either as in Route 15h or by either of the two sporting alternatives described under Route 15i.