SE Pinnacle
The South Rabbit Ear (SRE), dwarfed by its two big brothers, the MRE and the NRE to the north, is best reached up Rabbit Ear Canyon (although it looks deceptively nearer from Aguirre Springs). There are a few fine routes of the "classic" type on this little peak, and an unclimbed wall. It was one of the peaks first scaled by the German rocket technicians in the mythical "old days".
| Principal Routes |
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14a. NW Face |
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Class: 3 |
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First ascent: 17 March 1949; H. Schmid, A. Zeiler, E. Kollert. | |
This is a walking route to the top, which also serves as the walk-off for the W. Face routes. Go almost to the MRE-SRE saddle, then take to easy rock, going up eastward, then veer to the south near the top.
Descend the same way.
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14b. W Ridge |
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Class: 4 |
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First ascent: 11 December 1955; D. Schluter, K. Olhausen, J. Urbain. | |
Approach as in Route 14a, but take the rock at the bottom of the W. Ridge. Go up along this easily inclined ridge with plentiful holds, veering either left or right near the top.
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14c. W. Face, Balls Away |
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Class: 5.7 |
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First ascent: Dick Ingraham, Clem Ota | |
A fine route on steep, firm rock. Take to the pretty, miniature, triangular W. Face, about 300' high at a prominent shoulder, which projects out of it at the bottom, somewhat left of center. Climb unroped as high as possible on this shoulder. The first pitch goes straight up some 30', then traverses left to the top of a shoulder on the face. Next pitch traverses right some 20' to a bolt, then oozes around the bottom of a prominent rib, then up a dihedral and over the top of the rib to a good belay spot about 40' above the bolt. The next pitch is an easy diagonal traverse up and to the right along a large fault, but only about 30' long (to a scooped out place with a bush!). From this belay climb straight up about 20', and go up very steep rock to the left of an over hanging bit (a great hold, once you get high enough). You arrive at a comfortable ledge. Mantle onto a chest high crescent crack and clip into the bolt. Then search to the left for any available holds. The secret here is to ooze leftward, then get the left foot high onto "The Great Grey Foothold," which certain negative spirits have classified as a mere discoloration of the rock. You go up some 10'-15' without any decent holds, then seize a good finger hold and traverse left to security. The summit is 20' away.
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Normal W. Face |
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Class: 5.0 |
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First ascent: Dick Ingraham, Frank deSaussure, George Goedecke, Ron Thomas | |
From the top of the first pitch of Route 14c, go straight up one easy pitch on phenomenal holds, then follow a great fault slanting up and to the right, to the summit.
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W. Face Apex Route |
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Class: 5.6 |
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First ascent: Rick Ingraham, George Goedecke | |
On the fourth pitch of Route 14c, when the "overhanging bit" is reached, go up right for a very steep section of 10'-15' with a sort of layback. Thus you get into a V-shaped cleft, descending from the apex of this triangular face, and occupied by a clinging tree. Chimney out at the top through this tree.
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W. Face, Frank's Variation |
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Class: 5.6 |
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First ascent: Frank deSaussure, Ron Thomas | |
The approach is the same as that of Route 14c. Climb When the belay spot for the fourth pitch of Route 3 is reached, go right along the "large fault" another 30'. Then traverse left and up toward the "Apex" on small holds. You arrive at the cleft, occupied by the clinging tree. Finish as in the W. Face Apex Route.
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14d. South Rib |
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Class: 5.0 |
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First ascent: Frank deSaussure, Dick Ingraham | |
The South Rib forms the right hand boundary of the W. Face. Climb straight up it, through a succession of easy problems.
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14e. S. Face Pinnacle |
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Class: 5.6 |
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First ascent: Mark Losleben and ? | |
This sharp spike juts out of the bottom part of the unclimbed upper S. Face of the SRE. Climb up to it in one medium length pitch from the SRE-RE Massif saddle. This pinnacle was first reached by rappelling from the summit (J. Goncz and T. McCalla).
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14f. S. Face, Mom's Apple Pie Route |
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Class: 5.5 |
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First ascent: Reed Cundiff and ? | |
The route starts in a corner near the lower right hand edge of the S. Face. This is best reached from Aguirre Springs. Climb up three pitches over fairly good holds but some loose rock to the great gully descending from the S. Face Pinnacle. To return, it is best to reverse this ascent route by rappel. This route also serves as the best way off for climbs on the E. Face.
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14g. E. Face, Inner Arc Route |
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Class: 5.6 |
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First ascent: Dick Ingraham, Karl Horak, Lou Horak, George Goedecke, ... | |
This pretty, triangular face is very prominent from Aguirre Springs. Approach from there. From a point about 200' to the right of the great gully, blackened and smoothed by water runoff from Mom's Apple Pie Gully above, take to the rock. A steep section, employing hand traverses, gets you up the first 20'. Then go up fairly steep rock to a good belay spot about 100' above the beginning. Continue along the lower lip of the great innermost arc-like fault on easy, but rotten, rock to the meeting with the Mom's Apple Pie Gully. The Outer Arc parallels this one about 200' up and to the right.