7. Dingleberry

The massive peak north of Third Peak is Dingleberry, distinguished by its complicated buttress structure on the west. It is recognizable also from many angles by the great block nodding westward which forms its summit. As a typical central Organ peak it lies in the least accessible part of the Range and is rarely climbed.

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7a. Normal Route
Class: 3	3� - 4 hours
First ascent: Spring 1957 (?); D. Schluter, B. Tryon, J.M. Adams.

The approach coincides with that of Route 6a, as far as the Organ Ridge. From the Ridge climb up several easy pitches on Dingleberry's SE Side to the summit.

Return via the approach route or by descending to the Dingleberry-Wildcat Saddle and retracing the Wildcat approach (see Route 8a).

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7b. W Buttress, Inside Route
Class: medium 5	5� - 6� hours
First ascent: 1962(?); P. Wohlt, R. Ingraham.

Follow the Wildcat approach route (see Route 8a) to what appears to be the bottom of the W Ridge of the W Buttress. This ridge goes horizontally southwestward from where it abuts on the main mass of Dingleberry for 100 yards, then swerves to the west and drops steeply into Wildcat Gully. The long curving arc of this ridge, together with Dingleberry's W Ridge, enclose a steep sided "cirque". The bottom of the W Buttress is formed by a large detached "flake" separated from it by a narrow brushy gully. Approach to the foot of the W Ridge of this large flake, which is easily confused with the W Ridge proper of the Buttress when seen from below; this point is about 10 minutes short of the narrow saddle, gateway to the Swale. The first pitch goes diagonally up the SW Face of the flake to a lodgment on its W Ridge. Then head back up this face over steep rock seamed with good cracks to a point higher up on this ridge from which a descent of a few feet on the other side lands you in the abovementioned "brushy gully." Climb up the W Ridge proper of the Buttress on easier rock to a lone pine, above which the ridge steepens into an impracticable step. Go up steep slabs above the pine and around the corner to the left. Continue on this side of the ridge (inside the abovementioned cirque, hence the name of the route) over some narrow ledges complicated with moss foot and handholds until you can work yourself back onto the ridge above the step. Above this the ridge is composed of jagged blocks and several beautiful gendarmes, presenting few difficulties. This lovely aerial upper ridge affords some beautiful views of other peaks. Continue until the ridge runs into Dingleberry proper, then strike northeast into a short brushy gully at the end of which an exit over 4th Class rock leads shortly to the summit.

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7c. W Buttress, Outside Route
Class: low 5	5 - 6 hours
First ascent: Fall, 1964; R. Ingraham, G. Goedecke.

The same approach as for Route 7b. But continue along the base of the "detached flake" over a saddle, around a corner, along a brushy ledge to a point near the east end of this flake. Head up the face along a slanting brushy ledge which angles upward over steep rock chutes below. Attain the top of the flake and drop into the brushy gully behind. Drop down this gully and go up easy rock on the W Ridge proper of the W Buttress as far as the lone pine as in Route 7b. Bear right here along a large ledge on the S Face of the Buttress (outside the cirque) for about 150 feet; then strike back up the Face on an easy but scenic ledge to a platform on the Ridge above the step. Pass onto the cirque side of the Ridge for a few feet, then rejoin the Ridge 50 feet directly above the platform. From here on the route is the same as Route 7b.

This material is from "A Climbing Guide to the Organ Mountains", Copyright by R.L.Ingraham, Privately published, 1960's.

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