Razorback is the sharp bladelike peak just north of Wildcat. Its distinguishing marks are its long, extremely sharp W Ridge, which swoops down from the summit in a graceful spiral, and the nodding rock cornice on the northeast side of the summit. A 60 foot section of the Ridge near the top (the Razor) is only inches wide, the sharpest bit of ridge in the Organs, and gives the peak its name. Razorback is reasonably accessible from Topp Hut, and its W Ridge is one of the classic routes of the Organs, often repeated.
| Principal Routes |
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8a. West Ridge |
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Class: medium 5 |
5� - 6� hours |
First ascent: 1958(?); R. Ingraham, D. Boyer | |
Pursue the approach route for the Spire (see Route 10a). From the "little bowl" on the W Side of the Spire, continue down the gully on the West Side until it runs into the narrow gully descending from the Spire-Razorback Col. (This is the site of a small forest of aspen, gloriously golden in the fall, and all the more wonderful for being so rare and unexpected in this terrain.) Ascend the latter gully to a point just above a large slanting fissure which cuts Razorback's W Ridge cleanly in two. Climb onto the Ridge and continue up over easy rock until it steepens and narrows at a layback pitch, where the rope is usually donned. Above this, climb up steepening rock provided with plentiful holds, keeping as far right (on the true Ridge) as possible. After several hundred vertical feet the Ridge narrows momentarily to a knife edge and runs into a small vertical step. There are four ways around this obstacle. By the first method, step around the corner to the left of the small niche at the bottom of the step onto small, widely spaced footholds on the nearly vertical north side of the Ridge. A long reach up with the left hand locates a small nubbin, which then permits the right foot to be raised to a shelving foothold on the slab. Above this, one or two steps of friction climbing place you in security above the Step. This variation is not recommended for climbers less than 6 feet high. The second method is to take a shoulder stand and climb the step directly above the niche; the trouble here is that the step overhangs and the handholds above are very poor, The shortest and most elegant variation is to climb up the south side of the Ridge directly above the niche on extremely small holds. Yet another variation is to traverse out onto the south side of the Ridge on minimal footholds, then revert to a hand traverse along the large crack which curves up and around the corner. Just around the corner there is a stance, and the climb back to the Ridge above the Step is less strenuous,. Above the Step, continue up over easy rock to the Razor. Hand traverse this with the feet on small but adequate footholds on the north side. The summit is a few feet beyond.
Descending from Razorback is a matter of some delicacy. Retrace the W Ridge some 200 feet beyond the west end of the Razor to the bottom of a prominent, easy step. (A mistake often made is to turn down an attractive gully on the NW Face just past the end of the Razor.) Drop down a sloping ramp on the NW Face to the top of a steep, considerably exposed 20 foot section. Rappel, or climb down this secured by belay, to a large sloping balcony beneath an overhanging bit of this Face. From here traverse to the Razorback-Spire Col along a narrow, horizontal ledge filled with moss. (This also provides an easy ascent route on the NW Face.) Then drop down the brushy gully between Razorback and the Spire until the approach route is joined, and retrace this to Topp Hut.
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9b. NW Face, Direct |
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Class: medium 5 |
5� - 6� hours |
First ascent: 1961(?); P. Wohlt, R. Ingraham. | |
Approach as in Route 9a, then continue up the gully to the Razorback-Spire Col. The route goes from here up the NW Face to the summit directly above. Climb up a few feet on small holds and friction, then mantle to a very narrow ledge. Continue up on vertical rock, using good holds behind solid flakes, to a shallow belay spot somewhat below an overhanging shoulder. The second lead passes under this shoulder to the right on a steeply inclined shelf with good holds for the left hand (rather than to its left, which looks like the only feasible route from the ground). Above the shoulder, bear up and left on easier rock for two leads to the summit. Beware here (as upon almost all Organ N Faces) of loose rock,
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9c. SE Ridge |
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Class: medium 4 |
4 - 5 hours |
First ascent: ? | |
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9d. SE Ramp |
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Class: medium 4 |
4 - 5 hours |
First ascent: ? | |