18. The Cwm

Nestled against the N Face of the North Rabbit Ear sits a low cylinder of rock whose top is formed by a smooth plane tilted westward at about 30 degrees. This has been dubbed ironically the "Cwm".

Principal Routes

Return to the Top of The Cwm Route Descriptions

18a. Normal Route

Class: medium 4

3� - 4 hours

First ascent: 1960(?); R. Hahn, R. Ingraham.

Approach as in Route 12f, but continue along the base of the N Face of the North Rabbit Ear to the narrow brushy gully between it and the Cwm. Mount this, negotiating several short chimneys. Arrived at the Cwm - North Rabbit Ear Saddle, climb directly up to the left on small holds to the summit plane, thence walk to the highest point.

Descend by going down the summit plane until an easy exit leading down into the brushy approach gully at a point about 150 feet from the Col is espied.

Return to the Top of The Cwm Route Descriptions

18b. W Side

Class: hard 4

4 - 4� hours

First ascent: 1963(?); F. deSaussure, R, Thomas, R, Ingraham, G. Goedecke.

Approach as in Route 18a, but start at a massive juniper at the base of the W Side. The route winds roughly up the middle of this side, turning a steeper obstruction on the left. The bottom edge of the summit plane is attained after 3 or 4 pitches. Continue straight up to the high point.

This material is from "A Climbing Guide to the Organ Mountains", Copyright by R.L.Ingraham, Privately published, 1960's.