This row of spiky small towers, very impressive seen from Topp Hut, is an outlying spur paralleling the main Organ Ridge to the west. These mount in altitude from their inception at the mouth of the Rabbit Ears Canyon to their principle summit, the Lesser Spire, which stands facing Orp across a very narrow pass. All the Towers, with the exception of the Lesser Spire can be climbed by walking routes up the spine of the ridge.
| Principal Routes |
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16a. The Lesser Spire |
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Class: medium 4 |
2� - 3 hours |
First ascent: 1958(?); R. Ingraham, H. Davis. | |
Get to the bottom of its ill-defined NW Ridge via the approach for Route 15i or by mounting the west side directly above the Mine. After an unroped pitch and a short steep pitch to a moderate sized ledge, go up and around the corner to the left on good holds hard to see from the ledge. After some more unroped climbing, avoid a short smooth wall near the summit by going as far left as possible. Descend the same way: two rappels.
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16b. The Keyhole |
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Class: 3 |
1� - 2 hours |
First ascent: 1964(?); R. Ingraham, B. Evans. | |
This is a narrow slit piercing the lower (northern) end of the Rabbit Ears Towers spur. Just before the trail from the Mine enters the mouth of Rabbit Ears Canyon turn off it and bushwhack up toward the Keyhole, which is clearly visible to the northeast. Climb through it over easy rock and descend into the subsidiary canyon beyond, which runs down into Rabbit Ears Canyon.
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Variation |
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Class: medium 4 |
1� - 2 hours |
First ascent: 1964(?); R. Ingraham, B. Ingraham. | |
At the mouth of the narrow cut leading into the Keyhole, take to the left wall, climb up some 30 feet and traverse directly into the Keyhole along a narrow ledge. Once within it, chimney straight up to exit through a hole in the top.
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16c. The Slabs |
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Class: medium 4 |
2 - 2� hours |
First ascent: 1965; R. Ingraham, R. Thomas. | |
These slabs mark the northwestern end of the Rabbit Ears Towers Spur, at the mouth of the Rabbit Ears Canyon. Take the trail from the Mine to the mouth of this Canyon, then strike through the brush for a few feet to the bottom of this moderately inclined wall. Traverse from the left into the great chimney which mounts diagonally. Follow this to a large juniper near the top, then traverse a ledge and finish the climb on the right side of the wall. Descend by dropping down the canyon to the east back to Rabbit Ears Canyon.
There are a great number of relatively easy routes (and some not so easy) left on this wall, with its complicated structure of ledges, slabs, and large blocks near the top. The rock, especially near the top, is some of the finest in the Organs. Because of this variety and the shortness of the approach it is recommended for beginners and training climbs.